"Value Engineering" Your Project

Cabinetry is a large, long lasting investment in your home. We all want value for our time and money and finding the right value for your project is a complex combination of numerous factors. Price is a trade off between competing factors. We recommend a process we call “Value Engineering”.  This process works by integrating the design, engineering and budgeting process together.  At STEVEN Cabinets we work directly with you or with your designer or architect during the design process. This gives you access to technical expertise, samples, photos and ideas upfront. Knowing your options and the costs of those options during the design phase helps you ”value engineer” your project .

Many people are disappointed if they wait until a design is “done” and then bid it, as they often miss the mark on budget and aren’t aware of all the possibilities or technical challenges. The Value Engineering process saves time, design costs, avoids disappointment and achieves the best possible outcome.

Below are some of the things to consider when making decisions that affect value.

Aesthetics - This includes style, finish, wood species and optional accessories.  Is the installation seamless without gaps and fillers?

Quality- Do the slides and hinges close smoothly and softly? Is the joinery seamless and quality materials used in the right way? Is the finish lustrous and silky smooth to the touch? Is the finish catalyzed and UV resistant to minimize fading?  What is the warranty?

Durability - Cabinets get dings and scratches and have moving parts that need to function smoothly through years of use.  Check material thickness and joinery. What are the weight tolerances on the slides? Are the accessories solid metal and wood or lightweight plastic and wire? See our article “Cabinetry 101“ for what to look for in cabinetry construction.

Service –Is communication clear and documented so you understand what is included? What is the reputation for on time delivery and respect for your home during installation? Will the company be there to service the product and stand behind their warranty? Ask for past client references.

Options- Adding pull-outs, moldings, glass, glazing, etc. will make a huge difference in price.  Some accessories add to conveniences, some to aesthetics.

Price- If you have a set budget, make sure to identify the priority of the above considerations up front. To achieve a different price, any of the above items can be altered.  Remember, you typically get what you pay for. A price that seems too good to be true probably is not a value in the end. Large discrepancies in prices from different companies are usually an indicator of unclear specifications or trying to price a high quality product against a lower quality one.

We’d highly recommend checking out our “Tips on Estimates, Bids and Budgets” to help you further with getting started or contact one of our Project Managers for a no obligation initial review.

A Chevy or a Lexus? - Tips on Estimates, Bids, and Budgets

How do you get the best value when buying custom cabinetry?  A good analogy is buying a new car. Everyone understands that cars come from different manufacturers at different prices with different levels of quality . No one asks for a blue cross-over with AWD from a Lexus dealer and thinks it will be the same price as from a Chevy dealer. Both have a car that fits that description, but everyone knows they are not the same and adding option packages can raise the price by 50% or more. This is true of other custom products like cabinetry. You can easily spend more on a new kitchen than a new car and you will want it to last for 20 years or more. Serious investigation is in order. Cabinets have a chassis, moving parts, accessories and finish. The detail and quality of each element adds to the price and the long term value. They will either appreciate or depreciate the value of your home over time.

Below are some tips to help you with the process.

TIP 1: Understand the choices. Custom and semi-custom are more indicators of available options rather than quality. There are high quality semi-custom manufacturers and poor quality custom manufacturers.  Research who the “Lexus” dealers are and who the “Chevy” dealers are. Find out if they provide a range of products or just one level.

Tip 2: Establish a budget. Count the number of lineal feet of cabinets you are looking at. Custom prices can range from $250 to over $1000 per foot depending on the quality and level of detail. It will also vary depending on if you are buying direct or through a contractor or designer.

TIP 3: You would never spend the money for a new car without taking it for a test drive. It’s amazing how many people ask for bids on products they have never seen. Go to showrooms and open doors and drawers. Ask lots of questions.  (see our Article on Cabinets 101 for what to ask)  If the cabinetmaker doesn’t have a showroom, ask to see a jobsite.

TIP 4:  Asking for an estimate at the beginning is like asking for a car’s base sticker price. Always ask for a range of what the options might be to see if it fits in a realistic budget.

TIP 5: Custom cabinetmakers who install their product only charge use tax on the materials. If they sell it to a contractor to install, you will be charged sales tax on the entire product including the manufacturing labor. The difference can be hundreds or thousands of dollars.

TIP 6: If you are using a designer, architect or builder for your design and they don’t discuss budget along with the design options you are probably in for some surprises. There are wildly varying levels of expertise regarding cabinet design and budgets. (see our article on Value Engineering for help)

TIP 7: If you’ve done a design with a designer or builder, they will probably suggest bidding it. First, make sure their idea of a Lexus dealer is the same as yours. Second, make sure the details are very clear in the bid package as to the “accessories package” you are requesting. Otherwise, your bids may be like comparing a baseline Jeep to a fully loaded Mercedes.

We Are An Official Glastender Dealer!

Steven Cabinets is an official Glastender dealer! Glastender, Inc. is a Michigan-based commercial bar and home cocktail station manufacturer. They manufacture cocktail stations, sinks, stainless steel countertops, and more. You can see their full line and learn more at www.glastenderhome.com. As a dealer, we are able to provide you with all of your stainless steel countertop/cocktail station needs and work them directly into your project.

You can see our very own Glastender stainless steel countertop and cocktail station in our showroom:

Aniline Dye Finishing - Houzz.com Article

Check out this Houzz.com article on aniline dye finishing for wood! [houzz=http://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/3668697/list/Pro-Finishing-Secret--Aniline-Dye-for-Wood w=300]

Cabinetry 101 - Part 3: Cabinet Box Construction Methods

Part 3 : Cabinet Box Construction Methods

The important thing about cabinet construction methods is that there is a relationship between the type of construction and the cabinet's level of quality and durability.

The following terms describe some common methods of wood cabinet joinery.

Dovetail joints - this is a strong method of joining two boards together at right angles, such as with drawer boxes. The ends of two boards or panels are notched with v-shaped cutouts that mesh with corresponding notches on the adjoining panel. If they're tight, these types of joints are considered very solid.

Dado - this is a groove that's cut into a board or panel that the edge of another board/panel can fit into. A good example is the sides and back of a cabinet drawer that are dadoed to accept the edges of the drawer bottom. It's a stronger way to 'capture' the drawer bottom than just gluing or nailing the drawer bottom edges to the side panels.

Rabbet - this is a notch or step that's cut into the edge of a board to accept the edge of another board to form a 90-degree angle. It's similar to a dado cut except one side is left "open".

Butt joint - on a butt joint, the ends of two pieces of material are brought or "butted" together, edge to edge. Some form of mechanical retention like nails, screws, dowels or glue holds this joint together.

Good joinery techniques where the parts 'lock' together or where one piece is captured in the other makes for the strongest joints. Supplemental fastening methods on these joints makes an even stronger connection. Stronger joints equate to more durable cabinets.

Cabinetry 101 - Part 2: Cabinetry Materials

Part 2: Cabinetry Materials

Here's a list of the primary cabinet materials:

Solid wood - just as the term implies, it's solid wood, all the way through. The only variation might be boards or panels that are several pieces of solid wood joined together. Solid wood is used in doors and parts. It is not suitable for box construction because of expansion, contraction and warping caused by temperature and humidity changes.

Particle board - an engineered wood product that's made from wood chips and particles that are combined with an adhesive and fused together into boards and panels. This is an inexpensive box material.

Medium density fiberboard (MDF) - another engineered wood product that's made up of wood fibers. The fibers are combined with an adhesive under pressure and formed into boards and panels. MDF has a finer texture than particle board and is denser and heavier than particle board. MDF provides a very stable base for painted finishes in doors and paneled parts.

Veneered MDF- MDF that is covered with a wood veneer like maple or cherry for finished exterior parts.

Melamine -  It's a plastic based material for covering particle board panels that are used in making cabinet boxes.It is popular because of its durability and ease of cleaning. Melamines come in different grades. Thermo-fused provides better durability.

Plywood - It's made up of thin wood "plies" or layers of wood that are glued together in a sandwich form. Usually the plies are oriented with their grain direction at varying angles with respect to each other to give the board or panel more rigidity and stability. Plywood is considered the premium option for cabinet boxes.

Cabinetry 101 - Part 1: Cabinet Construction Styles

Cabinetry is a moving, functioning product that needs to be well built to maintain its beauty and functionality. It lives in tough environments like the bath, laundry and kitchen with spills, grease, hot, cold, kids and pets. It carries a lot of weight, opens and closes, slides and swings. How do you know you are getting a product that will add value to your home for years to come? This is a five part series on Cabinetry Styles, Materials, Construction Methods, Quality and Installation.  We will cover basic terminology you will encounter when shopping for cabinets and well as what to look for to determine if you are getting a quality product. We are sticking to wood cabinets for the purpose of comparison here.

Part 1 : CABINET CONSTRUCTION STYLES

There are two types of cabinetry styles: face framed and frameless. In the past, most cabinets were constructed with a face-framed approach but both applications now offer endless styles and design. Stock, semi-custom and custom cabinet designs are available in both framed and frameless construction. The main difference is how they look and the accessibility you have to the inside of the cabinet.

Framed boxes

Framed cabinets incorporate a wood 'frame' around the front outer edge of the cabinet box. The face frame is made up of a 1.5-inch to 2-inch frame of wood that is fastened to the forward edge of the cabinet, framing the box. The outside edges of the frame are flush with the outside surfaces of the cabinet box and the inside portion of the frame extends past the inside edges of the box. The cabinet door is attached to the frame's side.

Framed cabinet construction is generally considered more traditional looking and offers some style variety based on the amount of door overlay. Door overlay means the extent to which the door covers or "lays-over" the face frame.

Door styles

• Partial-overlay :  the doors and drawers cover only part of the frame.
• Flush-inset :          the doors and drawers are made to fit within the face frame opening.
• Beaded inset:       the frame has “beaded” molding detail inside the frame openings.
• Full-overlay:          the doors and drawers completely cover the frame

Frameless boxes

In frameless construction (also known as euro), there's no face frame and the cabinet doors attach directly to the sides of the cabinet box. Doors typically cover the entire box, which is called a full-overlay. Because they don't require a frame, frameless cabinets feature better access, allowing maximum use of space. This is because there's no inside edge of a frame that's partially blocking the perimeter of the cabinet opening. This also allows cabinets and drawers to be slightly larger than those constructed with face frames.

Frameless construction gives a more contemporary “clean” look. Modified frameless uses vertical fillers to give an inset look. Having no horizontal rails between drawers and doors provides greater capacity than true inset particularly in drawer banks. A frameless drawer box can provide up to 50% additional usable space.